Monday, June 29, 2026

Elaman, our guide, meets the horsemen who were there to show us how Kok Buru is played (in Afghanistan it is called "Buzkashi"). It is played throughout Central Asia and is a part of the Central Asian World Games this year. It is not a game meant for meek-hearted people.  

 
The game starts and the teams of three horsemen each (this number is not fixed) charge in to collect a carcass of a goat or calf as shown below.

The carcass of a decapitated goat with its paws removed is the item they fight for. This is deposited into a bin on both ends of the field to represent a goal. Oftentimes, the carcass is cooked and shared by the players at the end of the game believing it to be more succulent from the tugging of wrenching for it.

In addition to Kok Boru, the horsemen also showed us some of their other skills like wrestling on a horse. While the man tries to wrench the carcass from the opponent, the horse acts in unison with him to block the opposing team.


After the show, it was time for lunch at a villager's residence. Elaman and our driver are about to tuck in. 

Burana Tower is a famous landmark in the Silk Road.

One of the ruins of the Silk Road is clearly visible here. It's the base of what was a Nestorian church.

When we arrived at the youth yurt camp, we found out that it belongs to the Kyrgyz company operating our tour. There was an opening ceremony in which we took part. Here a representative from a Japanese group is starting the planting of a Sakura tree. Later I was asked to help in cutting the ribbon.

Yurts of the newly-opened youth yurt camp belonging to our agent in Krygystan. Behind is the Tian Shan range and in front is the Issyk-kul (Issuk Lake aka the Pearl of the Tian Shan).

Yurts for guests are set in a cluster of three.

For the opening ceremony a family of local entertainers performed for us, followed by dinner.
This is called Tunduk, which when opened permits air to circulate in the yurt.

The bedroom is not normally featured in a traditional yurt but then this is luxury complete with air-con cum heater
Striking colours of the Shazka Canyon aka Fairy Tale Canyon. 

Skazka Canyon with a peek of Issyk-kul in the background.

The canyon is spread over a huge area and makes for interesting hikes.

Sunday, June 28, 2026

We went to watch an Eagle hunting demonstration. In Kazakhstan, eagle hunting is called "Berkutchi". The eagle hunter (left) with his student posing with his eagles.

 

The hunter proudly shows off one of his eagles. During the hunting season, hunters with their eagles will be perched on a mountain. When a prey is spotted, the hunter removes the hood off the eagle's eyes and he will swoop down to catch the prey. Treats are usually given the birds to let the prey off.

Hunting dogs are also used to retrieve prey. 

Ala Acha National Park in Kakazhstan is located in the Tian Shan Mountains which are also in Xinjiang.

This shot is taken from the elevated cable car station 

Samani Mausoleum, named after Ismail Samani, was built in the 10th Century C E for the resting place of the powerful and influential Samani Dymasty. There are three burials there, one of whom is known to be Nasr ll. 



Chashma-Ayub Mausoleum in Bukhara is located near Samani Mausoleum. Its name means Job's Well for legend has it that Job visited the place, struck the ground with his staff and water came forth. To date, the water is still pure and considered healing. The current building was constructed during Temur's reign and is deemed uncommon in Bukhara for its Khwarazm style conical cone. 

Bolo Hauz Mosque was built in 1712 on the opposite side of the Citadel of Ark in Registan district. It was used as a Friday Mosque during the time when the Emir of Bukhara was subjugated under Bolshevik Russian rule in the 1920's. The word "hauz" means pond. There were many ponds used in the past for irrigation and consumption. Overtime, they became polluted, many were filled up and today, a handful remain.  

Minaret of the mosque used for the call to prayer

A portico of the Citadel of Ark which was a massive fortress.
Much of the Ark Fortress was destroyed when the Russians invaded Uzbekistan. In the background is the Old Town of Bukhara. 

At least, the citadel was brightened up by Vazira (our guide), 
shown here with Chong.

The old town of Bukhara, featuring the Poi-Kalyn Minaret, as seen from the Ark Fortress.

Aziz Khan Madrassa, one of the renowned Bukhara madrassas.

Saturday, June 27, 2026

 

I chanced on this Uzbek guide in his traditional costume with a sword to add. My guide informed me that his name is Genghis Khan,

Poi-Kalyn Complex is made up of the Poi-Kalyn Minaret, the Poi-Kalyn Mosque and the Mir-i-Arab Madrassa which currently serves as an institution of Islamic Studies. The minaret functioned as a lighthouse of sorts with lights leading caravans on the Silk Road to it. It is a centre piece of Islamic architecture in Bukhara and has been accorded recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  

Ulugh Beg Madrassa in Bukhara

Magok-i-Attari Mosque is a part of the ensemble of Lyabi Hauz.

Labi Hovus Restaurant is highly-rated in Old Town of Bukhara. Located next the pond of the Lyabi Hauz Ensemble, it attracts lots of diners daily. The food served is excellent and the service staff are very friendly and efficient. As we lodged nearby, we visited twice and found nothing to be desired.

Sarbast Beer, locally brewed, has won two international medals. I found out in Uzbekistan that beer comes filtered or unfiltered. Filtered beer suits our palate, I reckon. The potato wedges went well with Sarbast too.

Two kebabs - the one on top is beef and that below is mutton patty, Go well with beer. You may notice that Uzbeks consume lots of raw onion.

Sitora-i-Mokhikhosa is the summer residence of the former Emir of Bukhara

Built on sprawling compounds, today it serves as a museum for appreciating Russian architecture mixed with local adornments. This hall is filled with glazed tiles

An antique European clock blends well with the decorated wall.

Motifs here are largely European (Russian) in appearance.
Bibi-Khanym Mosque, named after Temur's favourite wife, was intended to be the Chief Friday Mosque of Samarkand, When it was  commissioned in 1404, the intended capacity was to be 10,000 worshippers. However, because of the rushed construction and materials used that pushed the architectural and engineering protocols of the time, the mosque began to deteriorate and parts of the structure crumbled away. Thus the aim could not be realized and it had to be abandoned. Today, it has been heavily restored and serves as an open air museum.  



Cute lovely Uzbek pottery that adorn the courtyard of the Old Bukhara Resraurant

 

A modern mobile Tandoori oven adds to the efficiency in bread-making?

Plov-a-la Old Bukhara Restaurant. It's vegetarian and the strips are yellow carrots. More details of Plov will come in a later post.

Mausoleum of the 14th Century Sufi saint Bahal al-Din Naqshband, founder of what became one of the largest Sufi Sunni orders, the Naqshbandi.
How Naan is prepared where the dough surface is indented before baking to ensure better baking. Naan is a critical part of Uzbek cuisine. We had some from this batch for our lunch.

Potter at work where we stopped for lunch on the way from Bukhara to Samarkand.

A caravanserai which has been preserved. They are common in the Silk Road and some have been converted to hotels too.

 The first pub in Pub Street, Samarkand, where we went to top up beer and pub grub,

The pub grub served here is skewered and heated up when ordered. Not to put on more, we opted for vegetables with an abundance of raw onions. 

A schematic of the empire of Emir Temur, the founder of Uzbekistan.

A genealogy of the Timurid Family. One of his 9th generation great-grandsons, Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, built the Taj Mahal in Agra, India. The influence of Uzbek architecture can be seen in the Taj Mahal.

The golden niche in which Emir Temur is interred.

A golden dome in the mausoleum,


Shot taken in the inner courtyard of the Gur Emir (mausoleum of the great Emir Temur aka Tamerlane).