THE LOWER CAUCASUS - Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia

 Mention "Caucasus" and the typical response is "HUH?" or "Where is that?" or "Is it in Europe or Asia?" or something along those lines. Very few people in this part of the World know of the Caucasus. Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia are countries lying in the lower region of the Caucasus Mountains. They became independent republics after the break-up of the USSR in 1991. Although relatively new countries, they have been in existence for a long time, particularly Armenia whose existence harkens to the origins of the Holy Bible. It has been referred to as the Kingdom of Urartu (Urartu being cognate to the Biblical name of Ararat) alongside the Assyrians and Babylonians in early Biblical history. In Genesis 8:4. it was mentioned that Noah's Ark came to rest on the mountains of Ararat. Hence, Armenia is also called the "Land of Noah". In 2 Kings 19:37, it is recorded that Sennacherib's two sons, who killed him while he was worshipping, escaped to the land of Ararat. 

Being the oldest of the the Caucasus republics, it also has the longest history fraught with many tumultuous events such as being a part of the USSR and thus ruled by Armenian communists linked to the Soviet regime. There were many wars they fought consequent to which they lost much of their territory. The Armenian-Turkish War of 1920 resulted in the ceding of about 50% of the land to Turkey including Mt Ararat. Then there was the Armenian Genocide of 1918 by the Ottoman Turks resulting in between 800,000 to 1,2m Armenians massacred. Up to today, Turkey does not acknowledge the genocide. As a result, many Armenians with the means escaped overseas resulting in a huge diaspora of Armenians living outside Armenia.

Recent wars and skirmishes in the Nargorno-Karabath region (which the Armenians call the Republic of Artsak) between Armenia and Azerbaijan also cause many hardships for the people. While Nargorno-Karabath remains in Azerbaijani territory, the majority of the residents are of Armenian descent. Recent victories by Azerbaijan, which is more powerful militarily, cause hardship and problems for the people some of whom became refugees in Armenia. Assimilation is also problematic.

Armenia also has "tense" relations with Azerbaijan and Turkey because of ideological differences in politics and religion. It tends to look to Russia for some affiliation. I do not know much of Georgia except that is a Christian majority country which is good in Rugby. As for Azerbaijan, it is the richest because of gas and oil deposits and it has frequent "tiffs" with Armenia because of territorial claims and religious affiliations. In the posts following, I will endeavour to give my impressions of the three countries in photos and commentaries. I hope you enjoy my postings.

The Flame Towers are an icon of Baku, the tallest being 182m high. Developed to reflect modernity, the towers are intended to symbolise elements of fire tied to Azerbaijan's nickname as the "Land of Fire" for their deposits of oil and gas. The towers consist of a hotel, residential apartments and offices as well as serviced apartments. At night, they are lit up with LED lights. In spite of this, it has been criticised as a Potemkin Edifice.  

An open air museum of ancient Azerbaijani architecture

Maiden's Tower, at 29m high, is Baku's foremost historical icon. From the rooftop, there are commanding views of Baku Bay and the Old City.

Bust (or statute) of Aliagha Vahid (1895 - 1965), a renowned Azerbaijani poet and Ghazal singer. If you look closely at his head, you can see stories of his life engraved on the hair, ears and forehead.

Entrance to Baku Old City

A shop selling quaint things guarded by an elderly couple.

Gobustan National Park is an UNESCO World Heritage Site

In the park, one can see some 6,000 petroglyphs dating back 5,000 to 20,000 years ago. Some of the figures can be seen in this rockface.

This is Chinara our guide in Azerbaijan. She is standing in front of mud volcanoes which we visited. In the World, there are about 700 such volcanoes and about 50% are found here. But, I must caution, travelling to see them is an adventure in itself. The cars used are those which should be sent to the junkyard with some having doors opening on their own. Plus, they are driven at breakneck speeds over unpaved roads with uneven terrain with large potholes.

This is a caravanserai or camel hotel very much part of Silk Road geography. Camels can travel up to 25 miles a day, after which they need to rest and get fed. At the same time, the traders will engage in some trade transactions while eating and dining. Many such structures have been or are being renovated to serve as hotels. 

The main course of an Azerbaijani meal which could be meat or fish.

Starters for a meal - lots of bread, cheese and salads with a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds when in season. Azerbaijani cuisine also comes with soups frequently whereas this item is generally lacking in Armenian or Georgian cuisines.

 

The border crossing from Azerbaijan to Georgia. After passport clearance at a hut manned by one staff, we had to walk on this bridge for about 200m to the reception area where our guide waited to meet us. But, before reaching the hut, we had to lug our luggage up a slope for about 600-700m. It was tough for us seniors. In comparison, the border crossing from Georgia to Armenia was "friendlier" - no need to lug luggage upslope but merely walk some 250 -300 m only and on flat roads.

Altogether, we had three wine-tasting sessions and this one in Georgia started it. I would say that their grapes are different from those we are used to. I suppose they don't have taxes imposed on their wines so they are comparatively inexpensive. 

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Wine storage area

Winery staff explaining how grape is fermented n earthen vats buried in the ground.

During fermentation, the grapes in the vats have to be churned over a fixed time-table.

Door to Shaki Khan's Palace, an architectural masterpiece from the late 18th Century. The design incorporates Ottoman, Azerbaijani and Persian styles and it is recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. 

The exterior of the palace. No photos were allowed inside. The windows intricately designed using wood, glass and other attractive elements are bound together without nails or adherents. Truly a masterpiece! They have beautifully decorated rooms for residence as well as to receive guests, etc.

 

Tbilisi, the Capital of Georgia, was founded in the 5th Century by King Vakhtang Gorgasali.

Another shot of the city which is vibrant, interesting to explore and modern.

This contemporary-looking bridge is an example of modernity of the city.

An underground shopping mall in the city.

The Metekhl (Virgin Mary Assumption) Church perched on a hill from which we viewed the city. The statue on the left is that of King Vakhtang Gorgasali.  

The church from a different angle

Givi, our guide, explains that the Hamman is a Turkish bath popular in the Turkic-speaking world. In the adjoining area of the hamman, there are many sulphuric baths. This district called Abanotubani is the first district of Tbilisi. There is a tale related to the structure in the next pic of a falcon and pheasant. The king was out hunting when he saw the pheasant flying. He launched his falcon which swooped on the pheasant and they both fell but didn't resurface. The king sent his men to check and they came back saying they found the "Gates of Hell". The foul smell was that of sulphur. The sulphuric baths flourished from then on. The king's falcon was hanging on to the pheasant as depicted below

I had to take it from the back because of the the angle of the sun.

Georgia is a great place for fruits. Pomegranate juice is a very popular drink and inexpensive too.

Mushrooms baked with cheese - part of Georgian cuisine.

A popular Georgian starter.

The restaurant was noisy as Georgian men seemed to like coming out in groups to dine, drink, and talk boisterously. There were also two men singing Georgian songs in the background adding to the din. 

Givi is an extremely friendly man who seems to know everyone he meets, including this motor-cyclist with a side car.

 Signaghi is an old city (790m ASL) also called the City of Love. There are cobbled-stone streets and buildings have old Georgian-styled balconies. It overlooks the AlazaniValley and faces the Greater Caucasus Mountains.

This is a memorial wall with names of fallen Georgian soldiers.

The statue of Solomon Dodashvili, a prominent Georgian philosopher.

This pic is to show that bread plays a dominant part in Georgian cuisine,

 

Ananuri Castle Complex (17th Century) overlooks the Jinvali Reservoir and has seen its share of battles. It is located on the Georgian Military Highway leading to Kasbegi.

Within the complex there is a church named the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary which is served by two buildings one older and another newer.

A huge cross adorns one of the walls.

Outside the door, there are several tombs of well known Georgians including Royalty.

A well adorned pillar

Jesus and other saints on one of the walls and the one below

Lucy and Lilie making the Georgian National Dish called Kinkali, a meat dumpling. Later, what they made we ate. I suppose we can say that it is the equivalent of our Wanton. Lunch was served in the home of a villager.

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The Gergeti Trinity Church is perched at 2,170m ASL under Mt Kasbegi (5033m ASL) Access is possible only with 4x4 vehicles

Images of Jesus and two saints adorn one wall

The Madonna Image is held in high regard in the Georgian Orthodox Church.

The church altar

The village of Gergeti taken from the church

 

Nine Singaporeans and one Armenian (Nara, our guide) with Mt Ararat in the background. The mountain has two peaks - Big Ararat (right) and Small Ararat (left) - and is a dormant volcano.

  

Nara was lecturing Armenian History before switching to leading visitors to her country. So, we learnt a lot of Armenian history and facts from her. She engages in equestrian sports in her spare time. 

Mt Ararat (although now lying in Eastern Turkey) is the main national symbol of Armenia and considered a holy mountain by Armenians. In Gen 8:4, it is recorded that the Noah's Ark came to rest on the mountains of Ararat. In 2Kings 19:37, Sennacherib's sons escaped to the lands of Ararat after killing him. At times referred to as the Kingdom of Urartu co-existing with Assyria and Babylonia, this attests to Armenia's place in the Bible. Armenia is also referred to as the Land of Noah. 

This is a residence in the mountain resort of Dilijan also called the "Armenian Switzerland" for its climate and natural beauty. The greatest mountain lake in the World - Sevan Lake - is located here.

We had to try the national biscuit of Armenia called Gata. It was unique and and tasty.

A small Armenian church in Dilijan.

Haghpat Monastery, built 10-13th Century, is considered a masterpiece of Armenian medieval architecture. It is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.  

Looking at some tombs of prominent Armenians interred there and being briefed by Nara..

In the faint light of the church, a shot of three Armenian Crosses called Khachkars. It is included in UNESCO list of intangible heritage. Although there are some 40,000 such crosses in the World, no two swords are identical.

A stand-alone Khachkar outside the church building. Khachkars are crosses carved out of stone with unique motifs like rosettes, interlaces and wings. 

A long shot of Sevanavank Monastery standing in majesty overlooking the lake bearing its name.