TRAVEL ON THE KARAKORAM HIGHWAY IN PAKISTAN - IT'S NOT DANGEROUS!

I was in Pakistan in Oct 2023 to travel the Karakoram Highway (KKH), the highest in the World, and be mesmerized by its marvels and awe. KKH is also known as the Eighth Wonder of the World, especially by the military veterans who first undertook its construction in the mid 6o's. Nanga Parbat at 8,126m ASL, one of the 14 eight-thousanders and ranked 9th highest of them, as seen from the KKH. It's also referred to as the "Killer Mountain" for its treacherous slopes and extreme weather.

 

Essential information about Nanga Parbat

Map of KKH. Total distance we travelled from Islamabad to Khunjerab Pass and back was about 2,000 km. It was an exciting journey of discovery of glaciers, great mountain ranges and rivers, high mountain passes, Pakistani taboos, customs and practices and cuisine  

Grandfather and grandson out for a walk. Males don't mind being photographed but it's taboo for females unless permission is granted

Hindu Kush is the place where three great mountain ranges meet - the Himalayas, Karakoram Mountains and Hindu Kush. It's also the confluence of two great rivers - Gilgit and Indus

Say Keow ceremonially laying a wreath at the Gilgit Chinese Memorial Cemetery, the resting place for Chinese engineers and military officers who died building KKH thru the 60's and 70's. It is taken care of by a Pakistani for the past 45 years

These children are eagerly standing outside the cemetery to speak Chinese with visitors

KKH (part of the China One Belt, One Road initiative) can be considered to be the "New Silk Road" and was built alongside the Old Silk Road used by traders and pilgrims from China, Europe and other countries

A section of the KKH with the Old Silk Road on the mountainside (right)

Rakaposhi Mountain in graphics

Rakaposhi is short of 212 m to qualify as one of the eight-thousanders,14 of which exist now. Nonetheless, as stated in the graphics, it is not easy to conquer. Can you spot a cyclist on a zipline emerging from the trees?

 

Hunza Peak I (6,270m ASL), right, and Hunza Peak II as seen from Darbar Hotel in Karimabad

Security guard at Baltit Fort with his nice handlebar moustache

Baltit Fort is >800 years old. Used to be lodging for the Emir of Hunza Valley

Sultan, our guide at the fort, giving us a run down of the fort 

Our 3 fair ladies with a Malaysian group in the kitchen

Two weapons of yore used for defence/hunting

A photo with the guide, Waffe, for posterity

Ostensibly the best bread in Hunza Valley sold at Hunza Food Pavilion near Baltit Fort.  Considered Hunza specialities, such bread comes with stuffing of meat or vegetables. Chapsuro (bottom two) can be considered to be a meal by itself. We were not served such bread for our meals.

Shepherd taking his herd to graze. The number of animals represents the wealth of the shepherd 

Like this one, all trucks seen on KKH are brightly painted

Sister and brother whose photo I stole

Altit Fort is >1,200 years old. Used for lodging of royalty and defence

The fort has a commanding view of the Valley. When approaching caravans or others were spotted, forces in the fort could then be put on the alert

Some Pakistanis resemble Europeans like this girl with green eyes. They are called Alexandrians

Sacred or secret stones along KKH with carvings/inscriptions by early pilgrims and traders using the Old Silk Road. To prevent vandalism, they are fenced

 

Hunza Valley is very lush and supports cultivation of essential foods. The valley is divided into the lower, middle and upper sections covering a total land area of 11,600 sq km. It is located in the Gilgit-Baltistan state of Northern Pakistan

Hopper Glacier, located in Nagar Valley, is 20.5km long

Lawrence is stealing a shot of a Yak. Good thing is that it is not a ferocious bull

Eagle's Nest Hotel is one of the better hotels we lodged in. It stands at an elevation of about 2,850m and has commanding views of the Duiker Valley below.

Shops outside Eagle's Nest Hotel

Duiker Valley from Eagle's Nest

Lady's Finger Peak as seen from the hotel. Don't be deceived - its elevation is about 6,000m ASL.

Attestation to the long standing good relationship between the two countries. China has helped economically as well as extensively in the construction of the KKH

How the lake came about, As result of the flooding, the highway had to re-aligned with five tunnels bored through the mountain alongside River Hunza. During that time, vehicles, goods and people using this stretch of the highway, had to hire boats operated by locals to convey them across the lake.

 Attabad Lake looks tranquil with its turquoise hue

One of the five tunnels that had to be built as a result of the flooding which created the lake

Hussaini Bridge is a suspension bridge spanning the Hunza River. Its 93m span can be crossed by gingerly walking the planks or by zipline. Courageous Malaysians out to prove their mettle.

 

After Hussaini Bridge, waiting for lunch in a restaurant nearby

Obviously, they didn't sail before as they fumble to don their life jackets

Waffe is reliving his childhood while we took a boat ride in Attabad Lake

Passu Glacier is also called the White Glacier for its gleaming ice

Passu Glacier information.

Passu is also known for the Passu Cones in the background, mostly covered by thick clouds. They are also referred to as the Cathedral 

Baltoro Glacier is about 63 km long. It is one of the gateways for the trek to K2. The "hills" on either side are known as moraines which are material left by the glacier  - like a river leaving debris along its banks

Visitors' documents are checked here before they are permitted to go to Khunjerab Pass

Khunjerab Pass (circa 4,710m ASL) is the highest point of the KKH making it the highest highway in the World. It's also the gateway to Xinjiang, China. The control gate is seen below the signpost. Sost, below, is where the truck shipments are readied for shipment to Xinjiang. A separate visa is needed to enter Xinjiang from Pakistan 

Chicken Tikka abv and Nasi Briyani are freely available. Instead of Archa, the rice is served with fresh veggies, as in a salad , and/or yoghurt

Borith Lake is an inland lake renowned for its biodiversity. Its fauna and flora is studied extensively 

It is normal to see people hanging around like this group in front of a fruit shop. Could it be due to high unemployment?

The Karghan Buddha is engraved on the side of a mountain. Unlike in Afghanistan where the Taliban government has destroyed all Buddhist structures, the Pakistan government does not do likewise.